Most of the mistakes we make when cooking happen not in the pan, but at the table. We've cooked a meal, and now it's too late to do anything about it. What differentiates those cooks who have confidence in their cooking abilities from those who get frustrated in the kitchen is tasting constantly and making adjustments along the way. Salt, fat, acid, and heat are the tools available to each cook, and understanding how and when to apply them is the difference between trial-and-error and intuition.
Why Tasting as You Go Makes a Difference
Recipes are simply estimates. Recipes were developed in test kitchens using specific ingredients, equipment, and ovens -- all of which differ from your own. A recipe calling for "one teaspoon of salt" was written based upon one type of salt, one size of pot, and one set of vegetables. Perhaps your tomatoes are sweeter. Maybe your stock is saltier. Possibly your oven runs hotter. The only way to take care of all of these differences is to taste, assess and adjust as you go.
Chefs taste their dishes repeatedly during service. It's not because they distrust their recipes -- it's because they know that cooking is a fluid process, not a static one. As food cooks, its ingredients interact with each other, affecting flavors. Flavors may enhance or diminish as they concentrate, mellow or sharpen. A dish that tasted perfectly balanced half-way through cooking could finish flat and one dimensional if you cease paying attention. Tasting is the feedback mechanism that keeps everything running smoothly.
An Overview of the Four Levers
To make adjustments to a dish, you need to understand how to identify which of the four levers (salt, fat, acid, heat) is causing an imbalance in the dish. With the exception of rare cases involving extreme ingredient deficiencies (such as a lack of sweet potatoes), nearly every flavor imbalance in cooking involves either an excess or deficit of salt, fat, acid or heat. Understanding how each of these elements functions independently and together allows you to predictively diagnose and correct flavor imbalances.
Salt -- The Flavor Enhancer
Salt does not merely contribute a salty flavor to a dish -- at a certain level, it amplifies every other flavor in the dish. Salt reduces bitterness, increases sweetness and heightens aroma. A dish lacking sufficient salt does not merely taste unseasoned; it tastes muted, as if every flavor is wrapped in cotton batting. There is no point in tasting salt itself; instead there is value in tasting the entire range of flavors more vividly due to the presence of the salt.
Fat -- The Flavor Carrying Agent/Texture Modifier
Fat carries fat soluble flavor molecules and provides a layer of film on the palate creating the sensation of richness and satisfaction. A dish that lacks sufficient fat typically tastes acrid, rough or shallow regardless of whether it is properly seasoned. Fat also contributes to mouth-feel -- the actual sensory experience of having food within your mouth -- which is an important aspect of our overall experience of flavor. Conversely, excessive amounts of fat produce a dish that is thick and oily, coating your tongue to such an extent that lesser flavors are obscured.
Acid -- The Flavor Sharpening Agent
In many areas of home cooking, Acid is the least used adjustment agent. When a dish tastes flat, heavy, "almost right but not quite," chances are Acid is what is missing. A dash of citrus juice, a squirt of vinegar or a spoonful of yogurt can instantly elevate a dish so that flavors appear more defined and intense. Acid also counteracts richness -- it slices through fat and renders dishes containing rich ingredients feel lighter without decreasing their caloric value.
Heat -- The Energy Producer
When referring to "heat," this article refers specifically to spiciness -- chili peppers, black pepper, ginger root, horseradish -- as opposed to temperature. While spices create interest and variety by providing contrasting sensations to each bite, they also stimulate salivary secretions thereby enhancing our ability to perceive flavors. Without spice (or insufficient amounts of spice) a dish may feel dull and uninteresting; too much spice may overwhelm the other flavors present in a dish.
A Step-by-Step Approach to Identifying Which Lever Needs Adjustment
When you taste a dish and realize something is amiss, you want to determine which of the four levers requires adjustment. Below is a systematic method for doing so:
- If the Dish Tastes Flat/Dull: Flatness in flavor is rarely anything other than insufficient salt. Take a small pinch of salt and stir vigorously. Wait 30 seconds for flavors to begin redistributing themselves among the ingredients, then taste again. If the added salt makes immediate improvements in clarity and intensity, you probably need additional salt. If not (and assuming you waited long enough for redistribution to occur), you likely require some degree of acidity (try a small squeeze of lemon or 1 teaspoon of vinegar).
- If the Dish Tastes Harsh/One-Dimensional: Harshness (the opposite of harmony) generally implies an absence or deficiency of fat or sweetness. Butter or another high-fat dairy product added towards the end may neutralize harsh edges and provide substance. Alternatively, a small amount of honey or sugar can soften overly pungent flavors -- especially those found in tomato sauces where acidity from the tomatoes causes raw, biting sensations.
- If the Dish Tastes Heavy/Cloying: As far as richness goes, there is nothing worse than richness that lacks balance. When a dish tastes excessively rich -- think creamy sauce coating your mouth unpleasantly -- it needs an acidic component. Try adding a couple of drops at a time of lemon juice or white wine vinegar until you achieve an acceptable balance between richness and brightness.
- If the Dish Tastes Too Salty: It is significantly easier to overdo salt than under-do it. However, you can frequently salvage an over-salted dish with a combination of additional unsalted ingredients (e.g., more potato in a soup or more pasta in a sauce) which dilute the overall salt content. Fat also covers up saltiness; adding a splash of cream or drizzling more olive oil onto the dish can render it somewhat more edible than before. Acid may surprisingly aid in this regard: it draws focus away from saltiness.
- If the Dish Tastes Bitter: Like richness that has no counterpart, bitterness can be diminished by salt, fat and/or sweetness. When a vegetable dish tastes bitter (over-cooked Brussels sprouts, slightly burned garlic or a coffee-based sauce) start by adding salt next, followed by fat next and finally a small quantity of sugar or honey. Be cautious when applying acidity to bitter foods since excessive application may amplify bitterness further.
Practical Tips for Tasting and Adjusting
Practicing Incremental Adjustment
The key principle in making incremental adjustments to a dish is to perform additions in tiny amounts. Add a little; mix thoroughly; wait briefly for flavors to redistribute themselves; then taste again. Seasoning a dish is analogous neither to adding water to a glass nor refilling a container filled with liquid; each new addition alters the total flavor profile, and it is extremely easy to overshoot.
Stir Before You Taste
Ingredients do not evenly disperse instantaneously in a pot of soup or stew. Thus, if you sample immediately after adding seasoning without mixing your food first, you will be sampling only that portion where that seasoning is highly concentrated rather than the entire dish as intended. Therefore always stir thoroughly prior to tasting and taste from the center of the pot rather than from the top surface.
Use a New Tasting Spoon Each Time
Residue from previous tastings may affect your assessment of subsequent ones -- not only regarding cleanliness issues but regarding your ability to accurately measure flavors. Keep several tasting spoons stacked nearby your stove area and use fresh ones each time you taste.
Assess Flavor at Various Levels of Temperature
Our perceptions vary depending upon temperatures -- for example: salt is more apparent when food is hot rather than cool. For instance: well-balanced soups tend to be overpoweringly salty when cooled. Sweetness tends to be less easily detected when food is chilled (hence higher amounts are required in recipes for frozen desserts than would otherwise be expected). When preparing dishes intended to be consumed cold (salads dressings; gazpachos; marinades), prepare with slightly greater quantities than normal.
Developing Intuitive Understanding Through Experience
While the four-lever approach described above provides an excellent model for learning how to identify flavor imbalances caused by salt/fat/acid/heat deficiencies/excesses, it is not a rigid formula designed to be applied mechanically. Rather it represents an increasingly intuitive model as you gain experience with cooking using this methodology. Upon completing your initial dozen or so meals with this framework in mind, you will discover that you are instinctively reaching for lemon juice or salt without conscious thought as you will have learned intuitively what each imbalance looks/sounds/tastes like and how to correct it.
Remember one simple question as you complete each meal: How many times did I taste my food during preparation vs. at completion? Did I adjust incrementally (a bit at a time), or did I add large amounts hoping I had solved the problems? Those cooks who improve the quickest aren't those with the most expensive ingredients nor those with the most complicated recipes; they are those who taste the most frequently; who adjust with precision; who monitor closely how flavors evolve from the earliest stages of cooking through the final stages.